It Pays to Take Care of your Plumbing

The average household plumbing system represents an investment of about fifteen percent of the value of the house. No part of the house is more important. Nothing in the house is used more often. A smoothly functioning plumbing system is a pin to health and adds to the convenience of modern living.
This booklet was written with the objective of helping home owners as well as renters keep their plumbing systems in good operating condition. The sale value of a house with sound plumbing is far greater than that of a house where plumbing is in poor repair.
There are many things that an owner or renter can do; there are many things that should be left to an expert-the plumbing contractor and his staff of journeymen plumbers. Minor repairs should be made promptly. Such annoyances such as a clogged drain, dripping faucet or a leaking flush valve in the toilet, are more than a mere bother - they usually waste money.
Major repairs, replacements, and new plumbing installations should be left to the supervision of a plumbing contractor. His working methods are based on years of experience - and his guarantee is assurance that all materials and methods are of the highest quality.

Drains

Plumbers get more calls to open clogged drains than for any other service. Many such calls could be prevented by greater care in the use of drains. The most-used drain is the one in the kitchen sink and that is the drain most often clogged.
Preventing this situation can be done by carefully watching what is emptied into the sink drain and by the regular use of a safe biodegradable waste digester. We can give you more information on these products.
Sink stoppages are usually caused by liquid fats, emulsified by warm dishwater and carried through the pipes. The water cools as it proceeds to the main sewer and leaves the fatty deposits along the way. A film of grease forms on the pipe wall, then another and another. Coffee grounds and bits of food add to this accumulation layer until the pipe becomes impassible.
Pour excess grease into a tin can and throw it out with the garbage, not down the sink drain. When using a food disposer, always let sufficient cold water run to carry the particles down and into the main line to prevent buildup in the smaller waste lines.  

Fittings

Fittings (faucets and valves) are used more often than any other part of the plumbing system. They get plenty of use but are built to take it, under normal conditions.
The best modern fittings are all chrome plated brass and will last a lifetime under everyday use. They clean easily with soap and warm water.
Caution: The metal chromium is easily dissolved in hydrochloric acid and sulfuric acid. Muriatic acid has for years been considered a good tile cleaner, but only where there are nickel plated plumbing fittings. Where chrome plating is present, clean bathroom tile with warm oxalic acid never with muriatic or sulfuric acids. Even covering the chromium surfaces with cloths will not prevent the acid fumes from inflicting permanent damage.
Gaining in popularity are polished brass fittings and trim. These will hold up well, as long as certain precautions are observed. NEVER use any abrasive cleaner on polished brass. This can scratch the protective coating on the brass finish resulting in deterioration or pitting of the brass plating. Also avoid use of solvent based cleaners because they can be deleterious to the polished brass finish.
New technologies have brought about the development of improved finishes that can with stand more wear, but check the manufacturer's warranty regarding it to determine whether or not you have the "new and improved" lifetime warranty finish.  

Faucets

Faucets leaking 60 drops a minute (not unusual) will waste 2,299 gallons of water every year. Homeowners should repair leaky faucet at once. You pay twice - once for the water going through the meter, and then again on your sewer bill, which is based on water usage. 

Water Heaters

You can't get along without hot water. Therefore, take care of the source--the water heater.
If you have a gas or electric water heater, keep the temperature dial setting at or below the suggested Factory Energy Savings Settings listed on the water heater. Above that mark means excessive wear on the water heater and the potential for scalding.
The burner of a gas-fired water heater is easily accessible and should be checked by your plumber periodically to keep it clear of dust or sediment. The flame at full fire should be a light to dark blue. If the flame is more orange or yellow, the gas pressure or air flow needs to be adjusted.
You can keep your water bills low by tempering all hot water as it is used. Letting the hot water faucet run on and on wastes not only water but fuel as well. With all water heaters, plan your hot water needs and you'll be delighted with the savings you get.
All domestic water heaters are required to be equipped with a relief valve as a safety feature to prevent damage from excessive pressure and temperature. There is always danger that this valve may become frozen or corroded from long disuse. For this reason, it is advisable to trip the lever of this valve manually every two or three months to be sure it will operate freely if an emergency arises.Note: The discharge will be hot water that will need to be contained in a pan or bucket or allowed to drain to a floor drain.  

Leaky Pipes

If you find a leak in your plumbing systems shut off the water supply and call us at once. Water supply systems are under high pressure. Temporary repairs are only temporary and wrapping the pipe usually fails. Leaks must have immediate attention, since they can progress into a serious break in a hurry.

Thawing Frozen Pipes

Frozen plumbing pipes, although inconvenient, do not constitute a calamity. The calamity may come if the pipes are thawed with a blow torch, and if the open flame or the torch is allowed to come too close to combustible material, such as insulation, wooden joists or flooring.
Another danger from the use of a torch arises when both ends of a pipe are clogged with ice and when the heat is applied in the center. The application of the heat of the torch at the center of the pipe is likely to cause the water to flash into steam potentially causing an explosion with disastrous results for the user of the torch.
It is far better to adopt the slower and more conservative procedure of melting ice by the use of a blow dryer, or heat gun.

Preventing Frozen Pipes

Before the cold freezing weather sets in, make sure that all the garden hoses outside your home are disconnected. Failing to do so can cause not only the hose but also the hose bib to which it is connected, to freeze and be damaged.
This is especially important with anti-freeze hydrants. The hose must be disconnected to make the faucet freeze-proof. Failure to do so will trap water in the faucet body, which then can freeze. If the hose is disconnected, the anti-freeze faucet can properly drain, and this will prevent freezing.
Water pipes which are exposed to freezing temperatures or drafts should be covered with insulation. Whenever possible it is best to drain systems not being used in severely cold weather. Small water pipes will freeze quicker than will waste or sewer pipes.
Never leave a garage door open in severely cold weather, if there is plumbing in the garage. The cold and draft can freeze water lines in minutes. Pipes located in unheated basements or garages should be insulated with a commercial covering.
When pipes are laid underground they should be below the frost line to prevent freezing.

Noises in the Plumbing System

In designing the plumbing system for a new house, a plumbing contractor will endeavor to make it as noiseless as possible. Manufacturers of plumbing fixings are making every effort to reduce the noise connected with the operation of their equipment, and contractors have been very successful in eliminating much of the noise formerly associated with plumbing systems.
Because so much of the noise is due to water traveling at a high velocity, it follows that whatever can be done to reduce the velocity of the water will correspondingly reduce the noise in the system. It is for this reason that it is so important not to skimp on the size of the water supply piping. Larger pipe will not only provide a more adequate supply of water but will reduce noise.
There are three general types of noises found in some of the older plumbing systems. These are water hammer, whistling and chattering.
Water hammer is the thump in the piping heard when faucets or valves are turned off abruptly. There is no excuse for water hammer. It can usually be eliminated by the installation of an air chamber or short length of pipe in the wall where each supply pipe enters a plumbing fixture.
In some cases, however, the ordinary type of air chamber will not prevent water hammer. In such cases, special devices known as shock arrestors should be installed on the main line near the meter or as close as possible to the cause of the noise.
Sometimes water hammer is due not to the plumbing in the house in which it is heard but to a condition outside of the house, either along the water main or in a neighboring house. In such cases, skillful detective work by an experienced master plumber is necessary to ferret out the source of the trouble and to plan corrective methods.
Water hammer should not be permitted to go on indefinitely. The noise is only an audible symptom of what is going on in the piping. The piping is being subjected to the wear and tear of a multitude of shock waves. The result will be leaks in piping, tanks or fixtures unless the condition is corrected.
Chattering in the piping may be caused by loose pipes, by pipes rubbing against a metal projection, by worn faucet washers or looseness of other inside parts.
Whistling is caused by the speed of water flowing through piping which is usually too small. A pressure reducing valve will help as will a general straightening out of the plumbing system. Whistling is most common at bends and tees in the pipe.

Sweating Pipes

"Sweating" pipes and plumbing fixtures in summer-time or during seasonal changes are not a sign of faulty plumbing. Due to condensation of water vapor in the air, beads of moisture will form in warm weather on any pipes and fixtures containing cold water.
Normally, when not in use, the water and fixtures will worm rapidly to room temperature and the condensation will stop. When a closet tank or other fixture continues to sweat for hours after it has been used, it is a sign that cold water is continuing to flow through it, possibly due to an improper adjustment of the tank valve or a leak.
Sweating pipes can be wrapped with an insulation material which prevents the condensation and formation of moisture.

Odors in the Plumbing System

The well-designed and correctly installed plumbing system is odorless. Odors are most likely to arise from leaks in the waste or vent piping or from traps which have lost their water seal. In an incorrectly installed system, there are, of course, many opportunities for odors to result from defects in the system, particularly if it is not properly vented.
Unusual odors should never be ignored. Such odors are often an indication that sewer gas is present. Sewer gas, while not always deadly, is noxious and capable of causing headaches and other minor illnesses. Sewer gas is foul smelling air and should be prevented from entering the house.
If it is suspected that sewer gas is entering through a leak in the piping, a plumber will subject the system to a test either by means of smoke, water or oil of peppermint. The test will indicate the location of the leak.
In order to explain how the sewer gas may enter a house through a plumbing fixture, it is necessary to clarify the function of traps and vents. Every plumbing fixture is the terminus of the city water supply system and the beginning of the city sewerage system. The faucets control the water supply. The traps and vents control the sewer air. They do so by a very simple method. Sewer air will not penetrate a water barrier. Therefore, a device is employed which keeps several inches of water between the house air and the sewer air. This is the trap, which is plainly visible under such plumbing fixtures as sinks and lavatories. It is built into water closets. In the case of bathtubs and shower cabinets, it is usually concealed in the floor or basement.
A trap, however, would lose its water seal by siphonic action every time a fixture is used unless the air on the sewer side is balanced with the air on the house side. This is the function of the vents. Occasionally, due to changes in atmospheric conditions, a compactly vented trap will lose its seal.
Usually, however, when a trap loses its seal it is due either to incorrect design of the vents, absence of vents or to evaporation of the water in the trap. Traps under fixtures that are used infrequently should be filled with water from time to time to insure an adequate trap seal.

Draining Plumbing in a Vacant House

If your house is to be vacated during cold weather and the heating system turned off, follow this procedure:
Shut off the water supply at the main shut-off valve at the street. Then beginning with those on the top floor, open all faucets and leave them open. When water stops running from these faucets, open the cap on the main shut off valve in the basement and drain the remaining water into a pail or tub. Remember that this cap must be closed after the faucets have run dry or the house water supply will flow from this valve and flood the basement.
Remove all water in the traps under sinks, water closets, bathtubs, and lavatories by opening the clean out plugs at the bottom of traps and draining them into a pail. If no plugs are provided, use a force pump or other method to siphon the water out. Sponge all the water out of the water closet bowl. Clean out all water in the flush tank.
Fill all traps with a non-freezing solution such as mineral oil, windshield washing fluid or RV type anti-freeze.
Drain all hot water tanks. Most water tanks are equipped with a vented tube at the top which lets air in and allows the water to drain out the faucet at the bottom. Make sure all horizontal pipes drain properly. Air pressure will get rid of trapped water in these pipes, but occasionally the piping may have to be disconnected and drained. To be safe have us check your entire plumbing system.
If your house is heated by hot water or steam, drain the heating pipes and boiler before leaving. Burners and pilots should be completely out and the main water supply turned off at the basement wall or street. Draw off the water from the boiler by opening the draw-off valve at the lowest point in the system.
Open the water supply valve to the boiler so no water will be trapped above it. If you have a hot water system, begin with the highest radiators and open the air valve on each as fast as the water lowers. Every radiator valve must be opened on a one inch pipe system to release condensation.
Note: When you return home, refill all the systems BEFORE lighting the hot water heater or boilers.

Where and How to Shut Off Water

Knowing where and how to shut off water for the entire house or any part of it can be mighty important in an emergency. That's why it is extremely important for all members of the family to know where the valves are and in which direction they should be turned to shut off the water.
One way to identify the valves is to have a tag on each valve indicating its function, that is, which fixtures or group of fixtures it controls. Valve- identifying tags may be obtained from plumbing dealers.
Another method of identification is by means of a valve chart. Because this is somewhat more elaborate, it is usually employed only for houses with several bathrooms. A drawing is made of the basement piping with all the valves indicated. The valves are numbered on the chart and tags with corresponding numbers are placed on the valves. Still another idea which aids in identification is to paint pipes a distinctive color.
Obviously, the most important valve in the house is the main shut-off valve for the entire plumbing system. This valve, generally located on the house side of the water meter, usually has a handle like a wheel if it has not been used in many years, it may require a wrench to turn it. Because the easy operation of this valve in case of emergency is so important, it is advisable to place a few drops of oil around the valve handle once or twice a year. This will prevent the sticking action of corrosion.
The shut-off valve may be the ground-key type with a small hole bored in its side for draining the pipes after the water is shut off or it may be a drain and stop with a cap nut covering the drain opening. In either case, close the opening before turning the water off. Unless this is done, water will spurt with force.
In addition to the main shut-off valve at the meter, the well plumbed house has individual shut-off valves on the branch lines leading to individual fixtures, groups of fixtures or equipment such as water heaters, water softeners, toilets, etc.
Many contractors, when installing plumbing fixtures, provide separate shut-off valves or stops for each individual fixture. These will be found on the supply lines below the fixture. These individual shut offs are a great convenience to regulate water flow in case of repairs as well as emergencies.  

Back Flows 

Understanding Backflow Prevention Programs

Some agencies, through the enforcement of the Federal Clean Water Act, were given the task of protecting our potable water supplies. It clarified that water purveyors must protect the public water supply from contamination by an outside source, through implementation of a Backflow Prevention Program.
Conformance to these state requirements minimizes the possibility for the water using public to inadvertently contaminate or pollute the domestic water system or the public water supply.
This program requires the installation of a backflow prevention device in the plumbing system where the possibility of a cross connections may take place. A cross connection. is an arrangement of piping or faucets which allows the potable water supply to come into contact with a contaminant.
An example of a potential cross connection is a lawn irrigation systems, where fertilizers, chemicals or other contaminants can come into contact with the potable water supply through the irrigation heads.
There are several types of backflow prevention devices used today. The type of device is determined by the degree of hazard presented by the possible "cross connection".  

Testing of Backflow Prevention Devices

In the case of a residential or commercial irrigation system, a reduced pressure principle backflow preventer (RP device or RPZ) is required between the potable water supply and the irrigation system. These devices are not only required by law, but also due to the requirements of the backflow prevention program the devices are required to be tested annually by a certified backflow prevention tester. The annual test is to ensure that the device is working properly and is a requirement of the areas' cross connection control program.
Most licensed plumbing contractors have one or more certified testers in their employ and will be happy to provide this service for you.

Leakage from a Back flow Device

Leakage from a backflow preventer is normally attributed to foreign matter lodging on the seating area of the internal check valve seats. The majority of the time this can be corrected by simply flushing the device which will dislodge any loose particles.
However, the spillage from the dump port does provide a "warning signals that the device is in need of maintenance. The needed service should be performed by a Certified Backflow Prevention Tester.  

Miscellaneous Suggestions

Sump Pump: If you have a sump pump, be sure that it is always in good operating condition so that it will be ready to function when it is needed. Oil it carefully in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Make it operate occasionally by tripping the lever after filling the basin particularly with water. Unless you do this every three or four months, there is danger that corrosion may cause a sticking of the shaft when operation is required.
Backwater Valve. The function of this valve is to prevent the sewer from backing up into the house during heavy rains. Most backwater valves operate automatically. A valve with a butterfly action closes against the sewer on the house side.
Sometimes however, debris lodges against the seat of the valve so that it cannot close tightly. There are also manually operated valves, which have a wheel handle to shut them down. Sometimes, debris (mop strings, etc.) can accumulate or collect near the valve seat, which prevents it from closing tightly. With automatic backwater valves, removing the lid, cleaning the seat, and greasing the hinge pin on the valve gate annually will guarantee that the valve will operate as expected when it is called upon to prevent the water from coming into your basement. With the manual type of valve it is best to operate this valve manually every six months in order that (1) all members of the family may be familiar with the location of the valve with its function, and where the wheel for manual operation is stored; and (2) in order that the manual operation may keep the valve.